Ecuadorian Ceviche

Just after graduating college, I decided to take a trip to the Galapagos Islands. By myself, and with the sole intention of seeing the world's smallest penguin, which only lives on one island in the archipelago. A couple of months before I left, I started seeing a guy that I became totally infatuated with. The trip became less about the penguins and more about meeting him in Ecuador after his study abroad in Peru. In my mind, we would be adventuring on the beaches, riding horses into the sunset, scuba diving with sharks, and sharing laughs while gazing into each other’s eyes. Basically a Hallmark movie trailer of some corny tropical rom-com. Unlike the Hallmark movies, this love story did not have a happy ending.

Bartolomea, Galapagos, June 2016 Elle DeBell.

Santa Cruz Galapagos Islands, June 2016, Elle DeBell.

We met up in Quito and took a bus to the funky yet grungy beach town of Montanita. The first night we sat on the beach and drank vodka. I never drink vodka. I drank a lot because I was nervous and uncomfortable, and I needed to drown my insecurities with alcohol. Trying to be spontaneous and live out my romance fantasy, I decided to go for a dip. Taking  him with me, I left all of my belongings on the beach. In the five minutes we were in the water, my iPhone, every penny I had for the next two weeks, all my credit cards, and ID were stolen. 

The rest of our time there was a bit awkward, alcohol-fueled, and what felt like grasping at straws. I even went so far as to throw a best friend under the bus, to have a juicy topic of conversation with this guy. I could tell he wasn’t as into me as I was into him. But to keep my own sense of control intact, I ignored any and all signs telling me to stay away. I clung to the hope that our shared sense of adventure was enough to keep this connection strong and eventually work itself out.

However, without any money, bank cards, and no real sense of what to do, I found less solace in this fledgling relationship, and more in the old men pushing ceviche carts across the beach. They were like those classic ice cream carts with a built-in cooler and large rubber wheels that always look a bit flat. Colorful umbrellas stuck out at awkward angles as they walked slowly down the beach, wheels grinding into the dark, coarse sand. Plastic squeeze bottles of hot sauce and shakers of popcorn and corn nuts lined the carts where for mere dollars, I could enjoy a styrofoam bowl filled to the brim with ceviche served with the warmest smiles on sun-weary faces. 

Illustrated by Nanette Jackson social: @nannnyj

Traditional Ecuadorian ceviche is typically shrimp heavy with octopus or white fish mixed in with a strong citrus marinade and popcorn scattered on top. Aggressively seasoned (always with ketchup) and addictively refreshing in the Ecuadorian sun. My memories of that trip are of insecurity, robbery, and really really good ceviche. This recipe uses only shrimp, which is always the star in a bowl of ceviche on the beach, but you can also add in fish or other seafood that you like.

Ecuadorian Ceviche

Serves 4

• 2lbs large shrimp, peeled and deveined

• 2 tbsp ketchup

• 1 tsp hot sauce, such as tabasco

• 1 tsp sugar 

• 1 cup freshly squeezed lime juice 

• 1 orange, juiced 

• 1 tsp salt, or more to taste 

• ½ red onion sliced thin

• 1 red pepper, finely diced 

• ½ cup cilantro, chopped 

• 1 cup popcorn for serving

Directions

1. Fill a large bowl with ice and water and set aside 

2. Rinse and dry the shrimp. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add in 2 Tbsp salt. Cook the shrimp in the boiling water for 2 minutes, just till they turn pink and firm up.

3. Scoop the shrimp from the boiling water and immediately place into the bowl of ice water to stop them from over cooking. Let sit for a couple minutes then drain and set aside. At this point you can cut the shrimp into small pieces or leave whole depending only your preference 

4. In a large bowl combine the ketchup, hot sauce, sugar, lime juice, orange juice and salt and whisk to combine. Add the shrimp to the bowl and toss thoroughly. 

5. Add in the red onion, bell pepper and cilantro and toss to combine. 

6. Taste for seasoning, if you like spicy add more hot sauce. Let the ceviche sit in the fridge for at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours for the marinade to really sink into the shrimp. 

7. Serve in chilled bowls with a healthy handful of popcorn sprinkled on top, extra limes, popcorn and hot sauce on the side.