Tequila and Transformation: A Conversation with the World’s First Female Maestra Ana Maria Romero Mena
Whether you hate or love tequila, there’s one thing for sure: it’s rising in popularity and has a varied flavor portfolio. Ana Maria Romero Mena, the world’s first female tequila Maestra, is one of the most trusted tequila authorities in Mexico. The award-winning tequila expert published Los Aromas Del Tequila El Arte Dela Cata (The Aromas of Tequila: The Art of Tasting) in 2007 that explores the sensory notes and scent developments over time. In addition, Ana Maria created Mijenta Tequila, a sustainable, carbon-neutral brand of tequila from the highlands of Jalisco, Mexico. Out of Office Magazine spoke to Ana to learn more about her tequila journey and what she thinks is up and coming in the beverage industry.
Portrait of Ana Maria Romero Mena. Image courtesy of Ana Maria Romero Mena.
𓆸 HELLO ANA, TELL ME A LITTLE ABOUT WHO YOU ARE, WHERE DID YOU GROW UP AND WHERE DO YOU CURRENTLY LIVE?
I was born in Mexico City and grew up surrounded by aromas, colors and flavors as my mother and grandmothers were fans of cooking. I love going to the market and everything that involves the senses such as cooking, art or enjoying the creation of tequila. I have lived in Guadalajara, Jalisco for 30 years, close to the heart of tequila, and my encounter with this drink was surprising. I studied business administration at the University of the Americas and then I did a specialization in sensory evaluation of wine at UC Davis, because wine was my first love. This discovery led me to take several seminars, visit different regions, wineries and learn about the senses and processes. A must visit was cognac. Casa Martell was incredible and they asked me about tequila. When I returned I put myself to the task of researching it, and I found a great area of opportunity in all phases of its process, from the agave to the barrel. I saw how the denomination of origin was developed, how the Tequila Regulatory Council was formed. However, there was no formal study of its aromatic development, its descriptors and its processes and senses. This research was presented to the Tequila Industry in 1998, in order to educate professional tequila tasters, develop a tasting vocabulary and be able to present tequila as a complex and sophisticated drink. I made my first tequila in 2007 and to this day I continue to learn more about this beautiful drink. I can say that it has put science in my mind.
𓆸 WHAT IS YOUR PERSONAL RELATIONSHIP AND JOURNEY WITH TEQUILA? WHAT SPARKED YOUR INTEREST IN THIS WORLD?
Tequila is the spirit of Mexico. The agave was the providential and sacred plant for pre-Hispanic times and represents my country. I always learn from this plant. My journey with tequila has been fascinating. Each batch, each region, each variable moves aromatic characteristics. Speaking to the world of tequila is a source of pride. I love how a glass can tell you the story of a process through the senses.
𓆸 TELL ME MORE ABOUT YOUR TEQUILA-MAKING JOURNEY, PARTICULARLY MIJENTA TEQUILA. WHAT WAS THE INSPIRATION BEHIND IT?
The inspiration behind Mijenta is its people, their vision of what a tequila should be, complex, balanced, gastronomic, and terroir-driven. What is exciting when creating it, from which regions of the Highlands I will select, the age of the agave, the type of yeast to be able to highlight the fruity goodness in the blanco, or which blend I will select for the reposado, that respects all the harmony of the blanco and enhances its style, or the añejo reserva in which we keep the best of our batches, a terroir called la mesa del huerto, virgin that gives an exceptional spirit and in time increases its goodness in the aging and the freedom I have to be able to innovate.
Saint-Raphaël. Image courtesy of Stevie Michaels.
𓆸 GIVEN THE DIFFERENT TASTE FLAVORS, WHAT KIND OF FOODS, AROMAS, FLAVORS, OR SUGGESTIONS SHOULD YOU INCLUDE FOR AN OPTIMAL EXPERIENCE?
The first thing to do, if it’s a new tequila that you haven’t tried yet, is to taste it. According to its aromatic palette, you would look for elements that by affinity generate a harmony, in which the tequila does not overpower the food and increases its flavors. It is not like wine. It’s important to have the ideal glass, as each tequila has its own type of glass. Blanco tequilas are best served in a flute glass, reposado tequilas in a balloon glass and añejo tequilas in a cognac glass.The tasting temperature is important, as they are not enjoyed at room temperature. The whites can go from 16°C, the reposados 18°C, añejos 20°C and extra añejos above 20°C. Always, between samples and at the beginning, clean the palate with bread and rinse with water.
𓆸 INTERESTING. WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO A NOVICE TEQUILA TASTER?
The first thing is to get to know the tequila process. Visit a distillery and discover the aromas that occur in each phase, and then relate them to the tasting. Taste different brands blind and try to relate their process. Train your senses to increase your olfactory library, train yourself and get to know your strengths and weaknesses as a taster.
Ana Maria Romero Mena tequila tasting. Image courtesy of Ana Maria Romero Mena.
𓆸 BACK TO YOU, YOU’VE DONE SO MUCH SO FAR IN YOUR CAREER. WHAT ARE YOUR SHORT AND LONG-TERM GOALS?
In the short term, to finish my second book, Notas de Cata, and in the long term, to continue creating complex, sophisticated tequilas that will get people interested in learning about our culture.
𓆸 WHAT ADVICE DO YOU HAVE FOR THOSE INTERESTED IN A CAREER IN THE BEVERAGE INDUSTRY?
It's good to know about all beverages. However, specializing in one of them is ideal, getting to know the raw material, its interaction with the environment, its process, its qualities and flaws, knowing its descriptors in depth and having the ability to transmit that knowledge to the fan who likes that drink.